doitmyself asked:


When weather is less than app. 80 degrees I have internet service. When it gets hot I lose service. The cable company installed it on the eave of the roof, but laid the 75 ohm cable across the roof. I moved the cable so that it no longer ran across the roof and gained another couple of hours during the day of connection time.

One of the contractors they sent said that if we could use the outdoor cabling the company uses we would probably be fine, but the company won’t allow them to use it indoors.

Since we have no crawl space to run wires. Do they make heat resistant 75 ohm cabling? Or can I increase the signal to the cable modem with an amplifier. The cable company hasn’t offered any options except drilling through the walls, which really won’t help. I have 3 TV’s and my cable modem. TV pictures are fine. Internet service works great when it is up and running.

Any ideas?
Internet service goes down when sun is shining and above 80 degrees. ISP has been out and says house need to be rewired with new RG6 cable. I rerouted their installation so that 50′ of app.350′ of outside cable was no longer laying on roof of house (took 50′ off roof and ran that through eave of house and now I get about 2 more hours of internet service each day - TV service is always fine). ISP has checked signal coming to house from pole and says it is sufficient. They last guy out said that heat was a factor. I asked about a signal booster and they said they didn’t like to do that, but I have a friend who said they installed one for him. I think the run from the pole to the house is too long and since it is in full sun all day much of the signal is lost before it gets to me. I need someone with technical expertise to explain what’s happening. Does anyone have any ideas? Do you know of a cable from high heat installations? What kind of booster can I get to install in the house?
We can’t drill through wall because there are 3 TV’s and internet service in different rooms to they have to go throughout the house. Drilling would only bring it into one room.

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indiantrumpet asked:


My pops replaced an alternator for my Nissan Altima (’2001 GXE) yesterday and forgot to disconnect my battery before starting the procedure. Now the car electronics are dead. The car runs when I turn the ignition and drives alright (though the engine block vibrates alot more than we started. . . probably because the tensioner is not set to the correct length), but the dashboard, horn etc etc do not work. Does this mean that I just need to replace my fuses? Or is there more damage done than before installing the alternator? I am going to go to the parts store later today. Please advise.
My father and I looked into the car yesterday and found that it wasn’t the Fuse box right next to the battery that was dead, it was the Fuse-able box that was dead. So right now, the radiator fans, anti-theft, air conditioning, power windows etc etc are the only ones that are not working.

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kentheo asked:


I live In Michigan. I need to store some items in one of those self serve storage units. I have a stereo and some electronics. Can they be stored in a unit(garage like door) without heat!

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KaraBear asked:


I have a 1991 Geo Storm. It’s been out of commission for a couple years and my mother gave it to me and my boyfriend to fix and drive. My step dad says that the problem with the car is the steering column. I bought a steering column and my step dad proceeded to tell me that I need the electronics with the steering column, this leads up to my question…. what do the electronics of the steering column for my car consist of?

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collie_brawny asked:


I have a remote for a vehicle and it was working fine before, but now it only sometimes work. I’ve already replaced the battery on it, but I think there may be residue build-up in the electronics inside and may need some cleaning up. What solution can I use to help? Does that dust freeze removal spray for computer parts work for this or should a different type of spray be used?

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